I will never forget the emptiness I felt as I walked away from that Sedona tabernacle that developers would soon demolish to make way for the future: golf.
Just before the pandemic in 2020 I moved back to Arizona. Being back prompts me to share my memory of Nada Hermitage’s long-gone main house. It was named St. Exupéry, after the author of The Little Prince. In the late sixties, Tessa lived there. Later, we monks took turns staying there to answer the only phone and welcome visitors and retreatants. The loss of Sedona is deep. But it lives in our present. The way of life that took shape in the womb of St. Exupéry continues in our little apartments on the edge of the Sonoran Desert.
On my way back to St. Exupéry, I heard the spattering of rain on the red dust and rock of the drive. I stood in front of the house and watched our dogs head for “the hut,” the little hermitage beside the garden. I flinched when drops penetrated my shirt and shocked my stomach and chest with their chill. St. Exupéry ‘s tin roof began to rattle its ripply rain song. Then I smelled it: wet desert, one of the most delicious fragrances on earth.
If I’m lucky enough to rise from the dead, I hope the first thing I’ll smell will be my desert-dust body revived by water; the whole dead, deserted cosmos revivified by a storm of Glory.
Staying in St. Exupéry makes me think along these lines. It rejuvenates and inspires me by its poor elegance, leisurely spaciousness, and nourishing fertility.
This house is Sedona, taking flesh and spirit from right here. I look at the marks of chisels on the hand-hewn Sedona stone of the wall. The breath of Sedona enters the front door, animates the whole body of the house, and exhales through the back porch. Death resides here in the bones Tessa gathered from the surrounding desert. Large flat slabs of red rock climb one living room wall to make a fireplace. The furniture is worn with age and love. The stereo adds to the atmosphere of leisure and celebration. I experienced a poor elegance or elegant poverty when I woke up here and from bed I saw clusters of blood-red roses against a silvering dawn sky.
A bathroom with a tub is a great space for leisure. Last night I basked in the tub while Japanese music played on the stereo. The simplicity of the bamboo flute and koto harmonize with desert simplicity. And what elegance to bathe in such rich sounds.
There is a big difference between our Southwestern simplicity and the Japanese Buddhist version. Japanese simplicity strikes me as light and airy. The physical world seems like a luminous jewel, yet fragile as a bubble, floating in an infinite Emptiness.
Southwestern simplicity is massive. I have a painting of a New Mexican village of adobe houses. The walls are spacious and bare, but weighty. The space inside is gravid, grounded, the earthy emptiness you sense when you enter a sparsely furnished, roomy adobe home. The few chairs and tables are heavy and dark; the ceiling vigas are thick and rough. That’s St. Exupéry, with its heavy stone walls, primitive crocks and pottery, and weathered paneling. These are not the paper walls of a Japanese home.
The fertility of this house reminds me of Mary, who gave birth to a Love who doesn’t die. I am sure that much of Tessa will die when we leave this house behind. The body of these buildings will disappear, but a tomb becomes a womb in Christ’s alchemy.
When I sleep here, Tate, our fifteen-year-old cat, tucks me in by licking my hands and arms. As I fall sleep, I realize that I am just beginning to fall in love with an age that is ending.
How touching to read this recollected experience of your desert home. I had no idea that you and Tessa both have stones from St. Exupery in Tuscon, where Wabi still is evident in your separate hermitages.
This was so interesting to read! I live at the former Nada in Crestone that is now Miyo Samten Ling Hermitage (aka the Center for Contemplative Research), a long-term Tibetan Buddhist retreat center. We’ve preserved the essence of Nada in many ways and the presence of the Christian contemplatives is very much still felt.
I know exactly which wrought iron cross you’re talking about, up at John of the Cross cabin. It’s good to know more about from where it came and that you were the one who helped get it there.
Thank you for sharing your story 🙂
I’m delighted to hear from you, Virginia, and it means so much to know that you feel our presence there. And it’s gratifying to know you read the story behind that simple cross at John of the Cross hermitage. I spent many wondrous days and nights there. Blessings to you and all at Miyo Samen Ling Hermitage. May you endure the winter bravely!